West Coast – Argyll
I live on the East coast, but I crave time on the West. All my childhood holidays were spent in Crinan. As a teenager, I was distraught we were not on the Costa Del Sol, I did not get a tan, and did not practice my GCSE Spanish in the local bars. Discard the ‘one size fits all’ purple wetsuit, too frequent rainy day picnics in the barn, no TV, lack of second bathroom in a house of 12……and focus on boat trips to islands, mackerel fishing, waterskiing through whirlpools, and foraging for muscles for supper! Or if we were lucky, a pint and some fresh prawns at the Crinan Hotel. Happy Days and happy memories.
Crinan
The Crinan Hotel provides a hub of activity at the northern end of the Crinan canal. Running between Ardrishaig and Crinan, and cutting across the Kintyre Peninsula, the canal is Itself a wonderful walk or bicycle ride if you are not sailing through it. I would start in the south, and head north towards, Crinan – enjoy the view down the locks after Cairnbaan. Whilst at the hotel, take a peek upstairs in Frances MacDonald’s art studio. Frances owns the hotel, and she and her son, Ross Ryan, both exhibit there and across Scotland. If you are looking for time on the water, Ross also runs island hopping boat trips on Sgarbh – a refurbished retired fishing boat.
Loch Melfort
Last weekend we spent a night up at the Loch Melfort Hotel – just 20 mins further north from the Crinan. At 30 mins south of Oban, the hotel is also very convenient for a night before your ferry further west. We arrived just in time for a G&T on the terrace watching the sunset. Stunning, just stunning. These coastal islands look at their absolute best at dawn or dusk and we were treated to a corker. After our sunset fix, we were treated to some delicious food – freshly caught fish, local langoustine, and too many puddings. Dog friendly, walker friendly, a couple of highland cows just outside your bedroom for aesthetics, local produce, cafe and garden shop. If you haven’t brought your kayak, you can take a more gentle stroll down to the shore or a walk round the National Trust for Scotland Arduaine Gardens next door.
Inveraray
If you are driving over to the West from Edinburgh, Inveraray is a good spot to hop out the car and stretch the legs. These small towns tend to be built at the head of the loch, and will have a small harbour of some sort to wander around. Located on the western shore of Loch Fine, Inveraray is a traditional county town and the ancestral seat to the Duke of Argyll. If you are looking to stay a night or two, The George Hotel is good bet, located on the High Street. Historically less accommodating is Inveraray Jail, now an Escape room venue.
Of course the jewel in the crown is Inveraray Castle itself – built in Gothic Revival style in 1746, and still occupied by the Clan Campbell. The castle has been used in various films including Downton Abbey, and TV programs such as Sky Arts Landscape Artist of the Year. The castle and the extensive gardens are open to the general public periodically during the year.